Kalamaja: Wooden houses & Bohemian charm

02.05.2011

Throughout most of Tallinn’s history Kalamaja served as the town’s main fishing harbour. In fact, ‘Kalamaja’ literally means ‘Fish House’ in Estonian, and starting from the 14th century the area was traditionally dominated by fishermen, fishmongers and boatwrights. Everything changed in 1870, owever, when Tallinn was connected to St.Petersburg by railroad. Suddenly enormous factories started to sprout up in this part of town, and they brought with them an influx of thousands of new workers.

The wooden houses built to accommodate these workers became Kalamaja’s architectural legacy and are now what gives neighbourhood its unforgettable charm. The most architecturally unique of these are called ‘Tallinn Houses’. Built in the 1920s and 30s, these two to three-storey apartment houses are made of two symmetrical wooden wings separated by a stone central staircase. There are about 500 of these in the city today. Visitors will also notice that some of the Kalamaja’s old industrial infrastructure is still intact and operating. The Estonia Piano Factory on Kungla 41, for example, is renowned for producing some of the world’s best grand pianos. Many factory buildings, however, have now been converted for other uses, like providing space for the city’s cuttingedge art scene. ArtDepoo, a modern art gallery at Jahu 12, makes its home in one such old factory.

Likewise the 19th-century Tallinn Electric Station at Põhja pst 29 houses the Discovery Centre Energy, a place where kids can learn about science through hands-on displays and activities. While in Kalamaja, travellers with kids should also stop by the Children’s Museum, Kotzebue 16, which displays toys and games from the Middle Ages to today.

Not far from the Electric Station, next to the harbour on Kalasadama street, the area's fishmongering tradition comes to life in the form of the modern Tallinn Fish Market. Operating every Saturday, it specialises in locally caught produce and its visitor-friendly nature makes it a great place to explore.

Kalamaja’s other curiosities include the Patarei Sea Fortress and Prison. Originally built as a naval fortress in 1829, it later became Tallinn’s central prison and still looks much as it did in Soviet times. Visitors can tour its dismal cells and hallways. Next to the prison to the east is the old Seaplane Harbour, which is home to the Estonian Maritime Museum’s Museum Ships. These include Lembit, a 1930s-era, British-built submarine, and Suur Tõll, Europe’s largest steam-powered icebreaker. To see them from the inside, just buy a ticket and climb aboard. Starting from July 2011, the nearby seaplane hangars will also be the site of the Maritime Museum's vast, new branch. High-tech displays here will cover everything from ethnography to sea mines, and will even include a flight simulator.

If you just want to absorb some of Kalamaja’s romantic, shabby-chic ambience, start by dropping into the Balti Jaama Turg, a chaotic market selling everything from dried fish to spare car parts. You’ll find it at the back of the Balti Jaam train station. Then head for a coffee at the aptly-named Boheem at Kopli 18. This homey, little café, stuffed with old furniture, has become the favourite hangout of the local artsy set and is the epitome of the Kalamaja milieu.