Nõmme: The Village Within the City

Just inside the city limits at the southwestern edge of Tallinn is an area that couldn't be any farther removed from the bustle and glass highrises of the metropolis. Nõmme, a quiet, forested district filled with 1920s- and 30s-era houses, has the feel of a small country town. It boasts its own historic centre complete with a farmers' market, cafés and pubs, and it even has its own castle of sorts, not to mention a number of other attractions.

If Nõmme feels like a village that's completely detached from the rest of the city, there's good reason – before being absorbed into Tallinn in 1940, it was just that. The area owes its existence to the Baltic-German landowner, Nikolai von Glehn (1841 - 1923), who not only succeeded in turning his Tsarist-era estate into a real town, but also earned a reputation for being somewhat eccentric. He was, after all, practically giving away land and the castle-shaped manor house he had built flew in the face of convention. 

The frequently running bus no. 36 from downtown takes about 25 minutes to reach the Nõmme stop in the area's centre. From here a short walk down Jaama brings you to the Nõmme Museum, which makes its home in a picturesque, 1930s-era railway station. In addition to displaying a number of photos and household items from the town’s early 20th century boom period, the museum tells the story of the Von Glehn family. Back across Pärnu mnt the nicely refurbished Nõmme Market gives visitors a glimpse of local life and a chance to sample the fresh produce of the day.    

From the centre, the Glehn Park and Castle are about 2 km east down Vana-Mustamäe. The Medieval Swiss-style castle itself, completed in 1886, can only be viewed from the outside, but the vast, surrounding area is well worth exploring. Right in front of the castle is the so-called Palm House, a garden grotto with an otherworldly feel. More bizarre features Von Glehn had installed in the park are an enormous, granite crocodile and a towering, granite statue of Estonia's mythical hero, Kalevipoeg. A particularly beautiful spot on the grounds is the Von Glehn family cemetery, where Nikolai's wife Carolina Henriette Marie and grandchildren are buried. Von Glehn had originally planned this as his own final resting place as well, but ended up moving to Brazil where he died in 1923.

The stairs adjacent the castle lead down to a meadow which is crisscrossed by trails, perfect for walking or jogging in summer or for skiing in winter. This is also the site of the popular Nõmme Adventure Park, where visitors of all ages can test their courage and agility by travelling across rope bridges from tree to tree, high above the ground. A more down-to-earth way to enjoy Nõmme's nature is to visit the Pääskula Bog, south of Pärnu mnt. on Hiiu. Here a 4km trail and an easier 2km trail are dotted with educational signs about the area's flora and fauna.